About Hide Care & Prep
Handling skins properly in the field is critically important! Your animal should be skinned as soon as possible, especially if temperatures are above freezing. This is particularly important for large species such as moose, elk, bear and buffalo because of their inherent ability to retain heat due to their body mass.
If your animal cannot be skinned immediately, it should be hung in a cool place out of the sunlight with the body cavity opened as much as possible.
If ice is available, pack the body cavity as full as possible. The ice should be kept in plastic to prevent contamination of the meat.
Once the skin has been separated from the carcass, large and small traces of flesh, meat and membrane should be removed. At this point freeze the skin until it can be properly cared for. You can bring your skin into Trophy Room Designs, LLC and we will take care of it for you, just bring it to us cold or frozen.If salting to dry, the eyes, ears, nose and lips needs to be turned and split.
Lay the skin out and salt it generously, coating all of the flesh side. Use fine grain Non-Iodized Salt. Shake the salt off the following day and then re-salt. When salting a skin maintain a temperature above freezing. Salting a skin in freezing temperatures results in low saturation and in turn degrades the skin. The longer the skin is left unsalted the more likely damage is to occur.
Careful handling of your hard earned animal in the field will provide the finest results possible and greatly enhance your trophy.
Preparation
Your trophy’s mounting dictates a great deal about how you should handle an animal in the field. If you haven’t settled on a particular mount type, we can help you select from several options, including:
Life size mount
Shoulder mount
Pedestal mount
Wall mount
Once you’ve chosen your ideal mount, you need to make the appropriate field dress to ensure you have enough hide (and in the correct proportion) for the mount you’ve selected. We’ll provide you with instruction on the proper field dress to guarantee your trophy’s hide is suitable for your mount of choice. We can also advise on a field dress that will enable you to select your mount type after the hunt. Additionally, we offer guidance on preserving the hide and horns to keep them in pristine condition, proper skinning techniques, as well as vital measurements and other important factors to keep in mind—so we’re able to create the best trophy possible.
Trophy Field Care
Proper care of your trophy in the field is a very important aspect of the overall process, as poor care after the harvest can greatly reduce the quality of the finished product, or even potentially ruin your trophy altogether.
Ideally, you should always consult your taxidermist prior to your hunt. If for some reason, however, you’re unable to do so, the following is an outline of the basic elements necessary to care for your trophy in the field:
Do not cut near the neck—this can ruin the cape
Do not hang an animal with a rope around the neck, as this will damage or destroy hair on the animal’s hide
Avoid all exposure (if possible) to moisture
Do not drag an animal, especially by the shoulders. If you absolutely need to drag an animal, place it on a tarp or blanket, and make sure the animal doesn’t wear through the tarp as its being dragged
Do not place a tag in the animal’s ear
Make every effort to get the animal to your taxidermist as soon as possible—If you face a delay, contact your taxidermist immediately to obtain appropriate storage instructions
Always save as much hide as possible. Too much is better than not enough, particularly if you’re unsure about the mount type, or happen to change your mind about the mount after the fact. Do not rely only on your guide or outfitter’s advice—your taxidermist’s word is gold in this matter
Avoid Spoilage
Bacteria begin to decompose an animal’s body on a cellular level the moment it dies. Heat, humidity, and prolonged exposure to the sun dramatically increase this process, potentially causing spoilage within hours. This necessitates an effective game plan prior to your hunt. Specially designed game storage bags are ideal, as plastic bags intensify the effects of heat and humidity, particularly if an animal is not allowed to cool completely prior to bagging. The cape is most susceptible to decomposition, much more than the carcass, and requires special attention. If you’re unable to bring the cape to your taxidermist immediately, it must be frozen to safeguard its preservation.
Salting
Never salt an animal unless it’s completely turned and fleshed (this includes the head and hooves or paws), as salting prior to suitable treatment and care of the animal will make your taxidermist’s job significantly more difficult, or potentially ruin the hide completely. If you possess training in correct fleshing and turning techniques, and are comfortable salting the animal yourself, be sure to use only non-iodized salt; never use table salt or rock salt. If you’re hunting in a remote area, causing a significant delay in delivering the trophy to your taxidermist, don't hesitate to contact us prior to your hunt, for advice and recommendations on appropriate handling procedures. If you have additional questions on proper field care for your trophy prior to your hunt, please feel free to contact Trophy Room Design, LLC: (970) 556-0327 | trophyroomdesigns@gmail.com. We’re more than happy to provide you with detailed field care instructions.
Mount Trophy Home Display Care
You must take care to display your mounted trophy in an area of your home that addresses the following conditions:
Avoid placing your mounted trophy in direct sunlight, as this will cause the hide to fade.
Avoid exposing your mounted trophy to excessive heat and moisture, as both elements can promote decay, and create an insect breeding ground, which promotes further decay
Place your mounted trophy in an insect free location
Be sure your mounted trophy is inaccessible to your house pets
If you choose to display your mounted trophy in your basement or any area of your home below ground level, be sure to run a de-humidifier to avoid moisture damage
Storage
If you place your mounted trophy in storage, be sure the storage space adheres to all the guidelines outlined above. You may also want to consider mothballs and a bug-bomb to prevent moths and other insect infestation.
**Please Note** Avoid storing your mounted trophies with other mounted trophies at all costs—even if only on a temporary basis (such as a pawn shop). Other mounted trophies infested with insects may infest your trophy, and insect infestation removal is a difficult and costly process.
Mounted Trophy Home Care Maintenance
Your mounted trophy requires regular maintenance to sustain its fresh, lustrous, “direct from the taxidermist’s studio” appearance. We recommend a complete maintenance regimen, at least twice yearly, including:
Inspecting for insects
Smoothing out-of-place hair with your fingers or a fine toothed brush such as a dog brush, always brushing with the grain of the hair, never against
Cleaning hair using a light application of Show Sheen or over livestock product, wiping off with a clean, slightly damp cloth, exerting very light pressure, always traveling with the grain of the hair, never against
Cleaning eyes with a dry or slightly damp Q-Tip cotton swab, brushing very lightly around the eye
Refraining from excessive or aggressive antler cleaning in order to avoid removing the antlers’ natural patina. The cleaning product Liquid Gold (found in most grocery stores) will effectively cleanse the antlers, while maintaining their natural appearance. A light swipe is effective in removing dust and leaving a slight sheen
Dusting the mount base with a can of compressed air (found at computer and office supply stores) as needed